If you thought hyaluronic acid was the most potent hydrator on the market, meet its under-the-radar sibling: polyglutamic acid (pronounced poly-glue-ta-mic) or PGA.
Anyone who experiences dry skin will likely already be familiar with the skin-plumping benefits of hyaluronic acid, which is widely considered the gold standard solution for dehydration. But with an ability to hold 5000 its weight in water (five times the capacity of hyaluronic acid), polyglutamic acid is threatening to knock hyaluronic acid off its throne. Here's everything you need to know…
What is polyglutamic acid?
First and foremost, polyglutamic acid is “an incredibly powerful natural moisturising agent derived from soy beans,” says dermatologist Dr Anjali Mahto. The reason for this, adds skincare expert Paula Begoun is that “polyglutamic acid is a water-soluble humectant capable of attracting and holding water within skin and on its surface.”
PGA is also a naturally-derived peptide. "It is produced by fermentation caused by the Bacillus subtilis bacteria," says dermatologist Dr Cristina Psomadakis (also known as Dr Soma). “This fermentation process is well-known because it's used to make natto, a traditional Japanese food made with soybeans. In fact PGA is sometimes listed as natto gum.”
Hyaluronic acid explained, plus the 21 best hyaluronic acid serums to add to your routine, prontoWhat are the benefits of polyglutamic acid for skin?
As well as being used in the medical world in drug delivery systems, polyglutamic acid is a useful ingredient within the cosmetics industry, too. Overall, it has a smoothing and hydrating effect on the skin and can even help with wound healing.
"PGA acts as a humectant, drawing hydration from the atmosphere into the skin, and can increase production of some of our natural moisturising factors (NMFs)," explains Dr Soma. "It has also been reported that PGA can prevent the breakdown of our body’s own natural hyaluronic acid," she adds.
Another characteristic polyglutamic acid shares with hyaluronic acid is the ability to form what Paula calls “a hydrogel mesh network.” What this network does is "expand to attract and hold water plus aid delivery of antioxidants (such as quercetin and ferulic acid) to skin that would otherwise prove difficult,” she explains.
Is polyglutamic acid better than hyaluronic acid?
Polyglutamic acid isn't necessarily better than hyaluronic acid or vice versa as they work differently to hydrate the skin.
When applied as skincare, it's true that both polyglutamic acid and hyaluronic acid lock in moisture. But that's where the similarities end. On a basic level, hyaluronic acid is naturally found in the skin while polyglutamic acid is not, Paula points out.
Then there's the fact that hyaluronic acid can only hold 1000 times its own weight in water, while polyglutamic acid can hold the equivalent of 5000 times its molecular weight. “For this reason, some studies suggest PGA is a more potent humectant than hyaluronic acid,” says Dr Soma.
But here's the thing: It depends where you want that hydration to go.
Polyglutamic acid is made up of larger molecules, which don't penetrate deep into the skin. In fact, research has shown that it's more difficult to obtain a consistent molecular weight of PGA, meaning it is more reliable to think of it as sitting on top of the skin as a protective barrier. So it's great if you want dewy dolphin skin on the surface layer as “polyglutamic acid creates an invisible film across the skin to make it appear visibly plumper and smoother," Dr Mahto adds.
Hyaluronic acid, meanwhile, is available in different molecular sizes, meaning some of the smaller molecules are able to travel to the deeper skin layers and hydrate from within. Unlike hyaluronic acid, PGA additionally has antioxidant properties.
Can I use polyglutamic acid and hyaluronic acid together?
The short answer is yes. While the two are often pitted against each other, polyglutamic acid and hyaluronic acid are actually best used together. "You don't have to chose one or the other, they can be complimentary to each other," advises Dr Soma.
When applied in tandem, hyaluronic acid guarantees deep hydration while PGA sits on the skin's surface to prevent water loss, while plumping up fine lines. In other words, they're a dream duo.
When should you use polyglutamic acid?
Polyglutamic acid can be used morning or night and, as @amelia0livia reveals in this instagram post for The Inkey List, it's a versatile ingredient that can be used “before moisturizer as a hydrating serum” or even “mixed in with foundation for the ultimate glow and a smooth finish.”
Like hylauronic acid, polyglutamic acid plays nicely with vitamin C and niacinamide, and helps to offset the surface crispiness that retinol can leave behind.
Are there any side effects?
PGA is generally considered to be safe to use on skin with minimal side effects. As with all skincare ingredients, it's possible to have a reaction, so always patch test if you're using it for the first time, especially if you have sensitive skin, notes Dr Soma.
Is it best to use polyglutamic acid as a serum?
Many serum formulas contain polyglutamic acid as it's easier to deliver the ingredient onto the skin. Some of the most popular include The Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid Serum; Paula's Choice C5 Superboost Moisturizer, where vitamin C is paired with polyglutamic acid for brighter moisture-drenched skin, and Charlotte Tilbury Charlotte's Magic Serum Crystal Elixir, which popularised the ingredient and made it a firm fixture in the ‘glow’ category.
as the best products to treat dry and dehydrated skin
ncG1vNJzZmivp6x7qLjApqauqp2WtKLGyKecZ5ufY8Kse8Crq6KbnJp8sbvLsp6lraSWuqqvjJqaopw%3D